Quiltmaker Fold and Sew
"Rick Rack" Christmas tree quilt
made using the "Points Out" Fold and Sew block featured in the September/October 2014 issue of Quiltmaker magazine.
When making the "Points Out" blocks, I like to use Elmer's washable childrens glue to keep the folded precuts in place during the fold and sew process.
Put a small amount of glue under each folded precut as shown below.
Iron to set the glue.
The glue will wash out when your quilt is laundered-just make sure you use washable glue.
Christmas tree body: Use 14 completed "Points Out" blocks-you'll find the instructions to make the block in the September/October 2014 issue of Quiltmaker magazine-and 2 plain white 10" precut squares to make the body of the rick rack Christmas tree.
Lay the blocks out as shown.
Join these 16 blocks with 1/4" seams as shown in the following photo.
The plain white 10" blocks are too large so trim the excess from the top 2 corners as shown in the next three photos.
Trunk blocks: (2) 10" precut background squares, (2) 10" lengths cut from brown 2 1/2" precut strips; and (2) 2 1/2" precut strips of christmas prints cut at 7" and 5 1/2" lengths.
On one 10" background block position the 5 1/2" strip against the left side of the block and one of the brown strips against the right side. For the second 10" block which forms the trunk, position the 7" strip against the right side and the other brown strip against the left side.
Fold and sew a 1/4" seam along the raw edges of the long sides of the trunk and xmas present strips that lay within the background blocks.
Iron open the seams then enclose the short raw edges of the present strips that fall inside the background blocks with a Fold and Sew 1/4" seam.
Your trunk blocks should look like the following photo.
Join the 2 blocks, brown fabric to brown fabric, with a 1/4" seam as shown.
Right side xmas present block: One 10" background block, two 2 1/2" xmas print precut strips, one cut to 10" and one cut to 5".
Position the strips as shown in the following photo.
Fold and sew with 1/4" seams to enclose all raw edges that fall inside the 10" background block.
Left side xmas present block: 10" background block, 5" red precut square, and (2) 2 1/2" gold precut squares folded in half diagonally, twice.
Position the red square at the bottom middle of the background square.
Fold and sew to enclose the 2 sides of the red square. Iron open. Place the folded gold triangles on the top of the red square as shown, raw edges matching.
Fold the top half of the white background fabric down to enclose the raw edges of the top of the red square and the raw edges of the gold triangles. Sew a 1/4" seam, then iron open.
Open the gold triangles as shown below to make a "bow" and stitch to keep them in place.
Join the "present/trunk" row blocks as shown.
The "present/trunk"row is slightly narrower than the body of the tree due to the Fold and Sew process, so add a 2 1/2" by 9 1/2" strip of background fabric to each end.
Center the trunk of the tree with the middle of the body of the tree and join with a 1/4" seam then trim any excess fabric from both sides of the bottom row.
Add a 2 1/2" precut strip to both sides of the quilt and then a 2 1/2" precut strip to the top and bottom of the quilt. Trim the ends of the 2 1/2" strips as needed.
Sandwich and quilt your "Rick Rack" Christmas tree.
Extra beads and ribbons may be added to your tree as decoration to give the quilt that "wow" factor.
3 Square is the 4th design in the Fold and Sew block series and the instructions to make this block are in the July/August 2014 issue of Quiltmaker magazine.
I used the block to make a little 4 block wallhanging.
For the wallhanging, you will need the following:
4 completed “3 square” blocks
20 -9" x 2 1/2" pieces of white sashing fabric
16- 2 1/2" white squares
9 setting squares in coordinating colors cut at 2 1/2” square. (mine are black print and red print)
36- 2 1/2” squares. These will be folded on the diagonal to make triangles. They need to contrast with the sashing. (I used 14 black squares and 22 red squares.
Position a folded triangle on each end of the sashing, raw edges matching, as shown. Baste triangles in place. Make 12.
I used red and black colors in my quilt and if you wish to make your quilt exactly like mine, you'll need to position the red and black triangles on the sashing as shown in the lay out photo shown below. Lay out the sashings, setting squares and "3 square" blocks as shown.
Piece the sashings, blocks, and setting squares using a 1/4" seam.
Fold the remaining red and black 2 1/2" squares in half diagonally to make triangles. Layer a folded triangle on a white square as shown and baste or pin in place. Make 8 with the red triangles and 4 with the black triangles.
Position the remaining sashings, the triangle units, and the white squares as shown in the following photo.
Piece, sandwich, and quilt.
The Arrow block is the third installment of the Fold and Sew block series in Quiltmaker magazine in their May/June 2014 issue.
A straight edge tool, such as the metal trowel shown here that I bought at my local lumber yard, helps when folding and ironing the precuts in half, especially when folding on the diagonal as you do with the Arrow block.
I’ve had some questions about the bulk in seams when multiple blocks are sewn together. The 2 to 4 layers in most blocks have never caused me a problem, but this block is bulkier than most of the blocks I’ve designed so here’s a way to minimize the bulkiness.
Sew a top stitch along the diagonal fold of the 5” precut, then cut away the excess behind the top layer of fabric. Just be aware that you’ll lose the 3 dimensional look of leaving the fold unsewn.
My first try with this arrow block was a simple table runner.
I wanted to make a slightly larger wallhanging with these fabrics and I experimented quite a bit before settling on the final layout. I started with 16 Arrow blocks and arranged them as shown.
I then decided to see what would happen if I added 2 1/2” square diagonally folded precuts to the Arrow block.
In block B I added the folded 2 1/2” precut to one of the remaining corners.
and in Block C I added 2 1/2” precuts to both of the remaining corners.
For my next layout, I used 4 plain Arrow blocks, 8 Arrow block B’s and 4 Arrow block C’s and laid them out at shown.
Then I decided to see what it would look like if all 16 blocks were Block C’s.
That seemed a bit busy so I settled on the final arrangement shown, using 4 plain Arrow blocks in the middle surrounded by 12 Arrow block C’s.
I love to add quilted feathers to open areas in my quilts and this little wallhanging lent itself perfectly to the feathers. I’m a traditional quilter and usually match my quilting thread to the fabric, but lately I’ve started experimenting with thread colors that contrast with the fabric. I think it was especially appropriate with the bright colors of these fabrics and I’m happy with the results.
This is a fun block to play with so experiment on your design wall before settling on the final arrangement.
The basic technique of Fold and Sew can be adapted and built upon to make an almost limitless number of designs, and this block is an example of that. A student in one of my Fold and Sew classes took one of my simplest blocks and changed it by adding a unique fold to the 5” precut. I built on that by adding 2 1/2” precuts folded into triangles. The March/April 2014 issue of Quiltmaker magazine shows you how to construct this "Blue Diamond" block.
I love on point quilts and thought this blue diamond block lent itself perfectly to this quilt setting.
To make this wall hanging you'll need the following:
8 Blue Diamond blocks with Dark Blue 10" background fabric
4 Blue Diamond blocks with white 10" background fabric
1 Blue Diamond block with medium blue 10" background fabric.
Twelve 10" white blocks trimmed to 9 1/2" x 9 1/2".
Join the blocks and white squares as shown in the following picture.
Leave the outer white squares untrimmed until after the quilting. Mark the trim line and quilt up to that line. This minimizes stretching of the bias edges.
After you've finished the quilting, you can trim away the excess triangle of the white squares, bind your quilt, and display it for all to enjoy.
Welcome to my website and a further explaination of the Fold and Sew block technique that's making it's debut in the Jan/Feb 2014 Quiltmaker magazine. I named the first block Baby Pinwheel and it's a fun little block to use in baby and children's quilts.
I tried a couple different quilt settings. In this first one, I joined 9 baby pinwheel blocks then added 2 1/2" wide strips and 2 1/2" square corner blocks cut from the fabric that I used for the little triangles in the block, as a border.
In the second setting, I again used 9 baby pinwheel blocks but added 2 1/2" wide strips as sashing (the sashing is cut the same length as the babypinwheel block) and 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" setting squares, with a folded triangle in each outer corner.
I think either setting makes a successful quilt.
Here's a helpful little tip that will make constucting the baby pinwheel block even easier.
Notice, on the outsides of the 10" block, the first triangles are positioned 1/4" in from the edge, and that the triangles in the middle of the 10" block, touch point to point. When you place the remaining 6 triangles along the other diagonal crease, the points of the triangles that meet in the middle of the 10" block will overlap 1/4". This helps the points meet correctly in the middle of the block.
Click on the Fold and Sew button on the left to see more block possibilities and learn more hints about the basics of this method.
Last Updated: Aug 05th, 2014 - 4:09 PM